For the beer connoisseur in your life, this portable caddy is perfect for transporting handmade or locally-brewed “growlers”, or could be sized down to fit wine or regular 12 ounce bottles. The slat design is a mix of form and function, as it allows the bottles to be seen while reinforcing the strength of the tote. While at $10, the pipe handle makes this project a bit pricey, it can easily be swapped out for a wood dowel or a heavy piece of rope.


Cost: $20

Time: 3 hour

Difficulty: Easy. The simple cuts and straightforward assembly makes this a great beginner project.

Tape Measure


Miter Saw

Pneumatic Nail Gun

(1) 1 x 6 x 4′

(3) ½ x 2 x 4′

(1) ¾ inch Pipe with threaded ends

(2) ¾ inch Pipe Floor Flange

1 ¼ inch finish nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

1 x 6 Base – 1 @ 16 7/8 inches

1 x 6 Sides – 2 @ 15 ¼ inches

1 x 6 Dividers – 2 @ 5 ½ inches

½ x 2 Slats – 6 @ 18 3/8 inches




1. Cut the Parts


Using a miter saw and the cut list above, cut the parts to size. Clip the top corners of the Side pieces. Sand all the cut ends to remove burrs. If you’re substituting a wood dowel for the handle, cut that now as well.
Build a Growler Holder by Build Basic - Step 1

www.Build-Basic.com2. Mark the Base


Using a square, mark lines on the Base piece that are 5 1/8 inches from each end. Mark additional lines 5 7/8 inches from each end. Repeat on the underside of the Base piece. The ¾ inch space between the lines is where each of the Dividers will set, evenly spaced 5 1/8 inch apart on the Base.

3. Attach the Dividers


Apply wood glue to the bottom edge of the Dividers and place them on the Base between the lines marked in step 2. Using the lines on the underside of the Base as a guide, shoot 1 ¼ inch finish nails through the Base and into the Dividers to hold them in place.

4. Position the Pipe Flanges


Mark the center of each Side piece near its top edge. Make an additional mark ¼ inch from the top edge of each piece. Place a flange on each Side, centered on the width of the piece, and positioned ¼ inch from its top edge. Using a drill, create shallow pilot holes in the center of each of the flanges’ mounting holes. This will allow quick and easy placement of the handle once the pieces are upright in the assembly.

5. Attach the Sides


Apply wood glue to the ends of the Base. Place the Side pieces against the ends of the Base so that their bottom edges are flush. Nail through the Side pieces and into the ends of the Base to hold the Sides in place. I used about six 1 ¼ inch finish nails to securely hold the pieces together.

6. Secure the First Slat


Lay the assembly flat on its side. Apply wood glue along the edge of the base. Position the first Slat flush with the bottom edge of the Base. Nail through the Slat and into the edge of the Base. Send additional nails through the slat and into the Sides and Dividers. This will help reinforce the strength of the assembly.

7. Secure the Top and Middle Slats


Next, apply a dab of wood glue to the ends of the top Slat and place it on the assembly flush with the top edge of the Dividers. Nail through the Slat and into the edge of the Sides. If the Sides were tilting inward, this is the perfect chance to push them apart by making the ends of the Slat flush with the outer face of each Sides. Center the middle Slat between the top and bottom Slats, and then nail it in place.

8. Transfer the Slat Positions


Using a square, transfer the height of the Slats to the opposite side.

9. Attach the Remaining Slats


On the second side of the assembly, attach all three slats in the same way as described in steps 6-7, and using the marks created in step 8. Once all the slats are installed, ensure the Dividers are perpendicular to the base (not twisted or leaning). Nail through each slat and into the Dividers.

10. Add the Handle


Once all the pieces are assembled, fill the nail holes with wood filler, let dry, and then sand the assembly smooth. Thread the pipe into the flanges, and then place it between the Sides. Align the mounting holes in the flanges with the pilot holes in each Side, and then drive ¾ inch screws through the flanges and into the Sides. Tip: If the handle spins, apply a dab of Super Glue where the threads meet the flanges to hold it in place.





17 thoughts on “Build a Growler Beer Tote

  1. Chuck Suter

    I built 5 of these growler carriers for my friends and they have been a huge hit. I did modify the design to use a through handle with dowels to lock it in place rather then the pipe shown. When I took my carrier into the local microbrewery tasting room, I got a ton of envious looks and questions on where I got the carrier.

    Thanks for a great design. We also found out the middle compartment is an excellent place to put your pint glasses or solo cups when you’re taking the carrier for some post-game refreshments after playing soccer.


  2. Nickie

    So I’m really new at all of this and haven’t really done any wooed working projects since high school. Why do you use the wood glue and nails? Are the nails not sufficient to hold it? Thanks.


    1. Schatzy

      Not really if you actually use it. The nails can wiggle loose very easily as they are small. Using the glue ensures that it will not come apart if knocked against something accidentaly.


  3. Anonymous

    JT, What I did was measure the inside of the tote,( where you pipe will go).
    Then take the measurement to home dept and tell them what the measurment is including the flanges, which will make your pipe a little shorter. I just grabbed the flanges and explained what I was doing. They can then cut that to your length..


  4. Pingback: 27 Genius DIY Projects For Peole Who Love To Drink | Hi Cydia

  5. Bev

    Great plan. However it takes 5′ of 1×6, not 4′. 2 sides @ 15.25 = 30.5, 1 base = 16 7/8, for a total of 47 3/8 – just about 4′. Then the 2 dividers at 5.5 each = 11 for a total of 57 3/8 – just about 5′. I bought 4 feet, sadly, without checking the totals and so had to make another trip to the lumber yard. But love the result.

    For my handle, I pieced together a 12 inch galvanized nipple in 1/2″ pipe, then at each end, a connector, 1/2″ to 3/4″, then a 1.5″ nipple in 3/4″, then the floor flange, also 3/4″. Because I live on an island and wanted it right now and that’s what there was. This all added up to exactly the right length handle for the pattern.

    Thanks tons.


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